Tuesday, August 15, 2017

William Dawes: The first white man on the Blue Mountains


The Author has lived in the Blue Mountains all his life born at Katoomba and moved to Springwood in 1949.  In his early years he gained an intimate knowledge of the region as a bushwalker. He gained experience of topographic survey and photogrammetry while working for the Forestry Commission and is an experienced cartographer and surveyor. 

In preparing this booklet acknowledgement is made of the help and guidance given by Jack Maddock, President of the Springwood Historical Society and the staff of the Local History Centre of Braemar, Springwood.


The Bi-centenary of the founding of Australia in 1788 established an awareness of our heritage.  From now on we will celebrate a succeeding series of such events and I think it is important to highlight some of the more notable firsts so that, if for no other reason, we can establish the roots of our Australian civilisation.

We owe some deference to a man who struggled through some of the most difficult mountain terrain in the country, carrying provisions such as salt meat and flour, camping gear, and probably firearms too.

Lieutenant William Dawes was able and intelligent, respected by all who knew him.  His story is one of an ordinary man who did his duty and acted with responsibility.  There are few records of Dawes except those available in the writings of others.  Unfortunately all of Dawes' personal writings were destroyed.

The story of this man and his adventurous journey is commemorated in this, the bi-centennial year of his attempt to cross the Blue Mountains, December 14, 1989.
Lindsay Paish.
Map by Lindsay Paish 1989
showing Dawes' probable route


By 1813 the infant colony was expanding to the north in the vicinity of the Hunter River and to the south-west through the Cowpastures towards Picton, Camden and over most of the Cumberland Plain.  Land grants were easily obtained by free settlers, the Military and ticket-of-leave men who had completed their sentences.  But the few agricultural areas within the plain were hardly sufficient to feed the colony and it was with some desperation that successive Governors had required that some break be made through the wild country surrounding the County of Cumberland. The trio of Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth, noting the information gathered by previous explorers, determined that the only practical course must be along the ridge tops (as the success of Caley in 1804 to Mt. Banks indicated) and it was this deduction that led to their 1813 achievement.

Prior to the successful crossing a number of attempts were made to surmount the barrier which, as was evident to the earlier settlers, was very broken and precipitous in the most part, only becoming easy in the areas of " wianamatta shale" which makes up the comparatively good land around the Rose Hill - St. Marys district and also a small patch on the Blue Mountains around Springwood.  The broken sandstone cliffs which surround the Hawkesbury River and the Lower Blue Mountains were extremely hazardous and dangerous to the men who had not the advantages of our present day footwear and clothing.  It was over this treacherous country that early mountain explorers had to travel -vertical cliffs, deep gullies, rough, broken creek beds, rocky outcrops and barren ridges.  The appearance to the English was aptly described by Surgeon White in a letter to Mr. Skill of The Strand, London: "... the country, my Lord, in past dispute a wretched one ..."

Governor King sent a party over the region to the north of the Grose River in November 1805.  They set their course from the junction of the Grose and Hawkesbury Rivers, headed due west for a distance of forty  miles (64 km) and rose to the summit of the first range and traversed some of the rich country around Bilpin and Mt. Tomah.  They reached a high prominence and saw at a distance of about 12 miles (20 km) another tall mountain (probably Mt. Banks).  On this first mountain they discovered a cairn of stones which King believed to be erected by Bass, who had journeyed in that vicinity some nine years earlier.  King described the mountains as a "stupendous barrier".

Caley reached Mt. Banks on the 22nd of December 1804, twelve days after setting out from the junction of the Grose and Hawkesbury Rivers, travelling W.W.N.W.  For the first three miles the country was good grazing land, but the rest of the land traversed was rough and barren. His view from the crest of Mt. Banks, to the westward, was of further mountainous country but no great gorges such as the Grose were in evidence.  After his return, his opinion was that the limit of cultivation was the foothills of the mountains.

 Most of the country was so sterile that Caley described it as -"the roughest of the country I found, beyond description -" and, referring to the lack of wildlife on the more barren ridges -"one of Caley's men remarked that they must have lost their way when they saw two crows - "
(In respect of the Linden monument, no record of Caley's shows of his attempt in this direction, though he does note an effort to cross by horseback.  If he had reached this point, however, he would have made some record of it, because of the nature of the terrain and the distance.)

The exploring trip by Ensign Francis Barrallier, to a point in the vicinity of the Jenolan Caves in November 1802, is far enough out of this district not to warrant any expansion here, though the reason for his trip was the crossing of the mountains. Similarly, the trip of John Wilson, southward through the Cow Pastures does not need expanding upon here.

In 1796 Surgeon George Bass crossed the Hawkesbury and proceeded westward to the rich area of Bilpin and Mt. Tomah.  At the terminus of his journey he erected a cairn which was later noted by Governor King in his journey of 1805.

An attempt at a crossing was made through the Lower Blue Mountains by the former quartermaster of the "Sirius", Henry Hacking in August 1794. He reported that his path crossed eighteen or nineteen ridges of high rocks.  David Collins mentioned in his "Account", 
—they saw but one native in the desolate region, and he fled from their approach, preferring the solitary enjoyment of his rocks and woods, with liberty, to any intercourse with them.  These hills appear to extend very far to the northward and the southward.  An impossible barrier seems fixed to the westward and little hope was left of extending cultivation beyond the limits of the County of Cumberland.— 
The terminal point of Henry Hacking's attempt to negotiate a passage of the Blue Mountains, was submitted for record to the Department of Lands, Sydney in November 1903, as being defined by the cairn discovered by Blaxland and party in 1813.

“It is assumed that the cairn as submitted for record is the one known as Caley's Repulse - at Linden.”  The original location of the cairn, noted as Kealey's Pile (Blaxland) may never be accurately determined due to the extensive and varied works associated with the Highway and the Railway.  It can be said, however, that the original monument was in this immediate vicinity.

Captain Paterson touched on the north side of the Lower Blue Mountains when he tried to gain access to the western country by way of the rivers.  He followed the Hawkesbury as Phillip had done, but took with him boats of shallower draft than the Governor's and so was able to travel over the rapids that stopped Phillip in 1789. After leaving Richmond Hill:
... this part of the river carried him to the westward and into the chasm seen to divide the high land, with some difficulty and some danger, meeting in the space of ten miles, no less than five waterfalls.  Above this part the water was about fifteen yards from side to side ...
It was supposed that he had travelled ten miles further up the river than before, naming the "Grose River" and a high peak they had in view in the chasm, the "Harrington Peak".  This was in September 1793.

A series of stupendous achievements considering the alien nature of the country. Achievements which culminated in the 1813 crossing overland that, to the European mind, was desolate, infertile and of unbelievable roughness.  Land which was first traversed by an indomitable Lieutenant of Marines - William Dawes.
Portrait of William Dawes
image courtesy Rocks Discovery Museum


William Dawes was somewhat of an enigma, a man who left little of his own work, but who ought to have given so much information about himself.  Many of his personal papers and letters have been destroyed and most information about the man must be drawn from the writings of many of his contemporaries.  There is no man among our founders who has provided so little about himself and his views.  What we know about him is through the statements of others.

Dawes was born 1762, the eldest son of Benjamin Dawes, a clerk of works in the Ordinance Office at Portsmouth, England.  In 1779 he was gazetted as a Second Lieutenant in the Royal Marines and served on the "Resolution".  He saw action in Chesapeake Bay, Maryland, in the War of Independence where he was wounded in 1781.

Upon his return to England he pursued skills of surveying and engineering and became a competent astronomer, a firm friend of Dr. Maskeylyne, the Royal Astronomer.  Dawes was a gentleman in the true meaning of the word, he was much respected by his contemporaries, and was skilled and conscientious in all tasks he undertook. "To give you his character in a few words, he is a most amiable man, and though young, truly religious, without any appearance of formal sanctity.  He is kind to everyone.  He has a great share of general knowledge, studious, yet ever cheerful, and the goodness of his disposition renders him esteemed and respected by all who know him " and further in reference to his skill as an astronomer Mrs. Elizabeth Macarthur says " - he is so engaged with the stars that to mortal eyes he is not always visible."

When the First Fleet was being prepared Lieutenant Dawes volunteered for service.  Due to his contact with Dr. Maskeylyne and his ability as an astronomer, Dawes was charged with the task of observing a comet which was supposed to reappear in the Southern Skies in 1788.  To this end he was instructed to set up an observatory, and a great deal of technical and valuable equipment was made available by the Board of Longitude.  Dawes was such an able person that it was his responsibility to maintain these delicate astronomical and meteorological instruments. The "Timekeeper", one of the most important pieces, particularly for navigation, was under Dawes' management and he, Captain Hunter or Governor Phillip were always to be present for the 'winding' at noon each day.
McAfee stated that - "For work in Australia it was indeed fortunate that such a conscientious and thorough scientist as Dawes was given these tasks."

On the voyage out Dawes continued to follow his readings and studies and at every opportunity made contact with local astronomers at each landfall.  In November 1787 Governor Phillip, Lt. King and Lt. Dawes transferred from the "Sirius" to the "Supply" as the latter was a faster ship and Capt. Phillip wished to reach Botany Bay first.

Upon reaching Botany Bay Lieutenant Dawes was among the first to explore the interior and found the country unattractive and unsuitable for settlement.  The results of these investigations prompted Phillip to move to Port Jackson.

Dawes was not drafted ashore until July 1788 and in the intervening time worked incessantly to complete the construction of an observatory to house the precious astronomical and meteorological instruments entrusted to him by the Board of Longitude.  The building was constructed on the western point of Sydney Cove and consisted of a small lean-to shed attached to an octagonal building designed to allow observation of the stars through the roof.

This building became the cultural and intellectual centre of the infant colony and the area around it became known as Dawes Point. However, at Dawes' request, Capt. Hunter - "was pleased to honour this Point by calling it Point Maskeylyne" after the Astronomer Royal who had delegated Dawes to make observations.  However, the popular name of "Dawes Point" has remained to this day.

The early struggles of the new colony demanded much time and energy from the resident astronomer and unofficial meteorologist.  Apart from his duties as an officer to the Royal Marines as well as his observations of Astronomy and detailed recording of meteorological data, Dawes was involved in laying out the first streets and allotments in Sydney and Parramatta.  In addition, Dawes participated in several expeditions accompanied by Watkin Tench.

 Dawes' participation in these expeditions was of great importance, Captain Tench stated in his complete account of the settlement of Port Jackson:

Our method on these expeditions was to steer by compass, noting the different courses as we proceeded;  and counting the number of paces, of which two thousand two hundred on good ground were allowed to be a mile.  At night, when we halted, all these courses were separately cast up, and worked by a traverse table in the manner of a ship's reckoning is kept;  so that by observing this precaution we always knew exactly where we were, and how far from home;  an unspeakable advantage in a new colony, where one hill and one tree, is so like another that fatal wonderings would ensue without it. This arduous task was always allotted to Mr. Dawes who, from habit and superior skill, performed it almost without a stop or interruption of conversation;  to any other man, on such terms, it would have been impracticable.

This man, this scientist and recorder, was responsible for the early exploration of the Colony of N.S.W.   A man of great general knowledge and skilled application of his abilities, was liked by all who knew him and, as would later be revealed, a man of great compassion.  William Dawes was the first recorded white man to penetrate the Blue Mountains.

Dawes' map drawn 1791, image: nla.obj-230635598


In the early days of settlement the infant colony depended for its subsistence almost entirely on that which was brought in;  no reliance could be placed on early agricultural efforts, animals could not be considered suitable to supplement the diet for upwards of five thousand souls.  Although cultivation was begun under the direction of Governor Phillip almost immediately after the first settlers landed, it was soon found that the soil was so inferior that the crops were not nearly as good as was expected.  It was with these troubles on his mind that Phillip started out on his trips of discovery.  On his first journey to the north, past what is now the Narrabeen Lakes, he had a full view of what he called "The Blue Mountains".  He was determined to reach the summit of those mountains with the object of extending the area of cultivation.  In the meantime, the area around Rose Hill was discovered and it was from this area that further exploration was carried out.

Governor Phillip, accompanied by Admiral John Hunter, travelled to the north west discovering the Hawkesbury River which they crossed and, on the north side on the 5th July 1789, reached an high hill which he called "Richmond Hill".  It is recorded in Hunter's Journal of that date - "this range of mountains we supposed to be those which are seen from Port Jackson and called "The Blue Mountains" - in that range of highland there is a remarkable gully or chasm, from which we appeared to be distant about five miles !  It was at this point that Phillip named the high basalt hills (Mt. Hay, Mt. Irvine etc) to the north of this chasm, the "Carmarthen Mountains" and those to the south the "Landsdowne Hills" (the Lower Blue Mountains).

 There is little doubt that these mountains held a strong attraction for Phillip as is borne out by his repeated attempts and his instructions to others to reach and cross them.
Tench remarks:

 . . . at a distance of sixty miles inland a prodigious chain of lofty mountains runs in a nearly north south direction, farther than the eye can trace them.  Should nothing intervene to prevent it, the Governor intends shortly to explore their summits and I think that there can be little doubt that his curiosity will not go unrewarded.

By this time conditions in the colony were nearly chaotic; discipline in the Marine Corps was falling off and control of the convicts was almost non-existent.  Many of the convicts and a number of officers and men were taking up land grants and establishing farms on the more arable lands around the settlement, but their extensive attempts at cultivation were not succeeding because of the extreme climatic conditions. More convicts were expected each day and the meagre supplies were not considered sufficient to cope even with the relief by the establishment of Norfolk Island.

The Governor aided the taking up of land by making free grants of land to settlers and in lieu of fees or quit rent, these settlers undertook to take charge of and feed a number of convicts, thus relieving the strain on the Government Stores.  It was in this early period of land-grabbing development, that David Collins stated "—-a knowledge of the interior parts of this extensive country was anxiously desired by everyone — "

In December 1789, Governor Phillip charged Dawes with the task of reaching the western mountains from a freshwater stream that Tench had found earlier and believed to be a tributary of the Hawkesbury, Collins' statement continued "—with a small party taking with them as many provisions as they could conveniently carry, set off in an attempt to reach the western mountains.  This excursion he returned on the ninth day without accomplishing his design."

Tench records that the party was made up of Lieutenant Dawes of the Marines accompanied by Lieutenant Johnston and Mr. Lowes.

Emu Ford on the Nepean River 1958, image Blue Mountains Library
Dawes' small party left the ford at Emu on the Nepean and began his journey to the mountains.  From the available information on this trip, it is obvious that the objective of the trip was Round Hill (Mt. Hay) either by Dawes' own design or direction of the Governor.  It could easily be conceived that this hill was the crest of the range and that an extensive view could be gained from the summit which would no doubt aid in the formulation of a more concrete plan to result in an ultimate crossing.  Dawes headed directly for that hill.

On the first day of the journey, as the foothills obscured a view of Round Hill, the party headed west until reaching the crest of the first ridge (about the location of Mt. Riverview). From here there is a good view of Round Hill and Dawes altered course slightly to head directly to it.

 With Round Hill as a landmark, Dawes headed directly for it and crossed the main ridge, dividing the waters of the Grose and Nepean, at a point somewhat east of Warrimoo Station.  Continuing, at least six major creeks that drain southward from Valley Heights were crossed - an arduous task requiring considerable effort in climbing into and out of them.  In fact, the whole of the journey involved ascending and descending the gullies of the Lower Mountains.

Dawes crossed the ridge south of Springwood near the last house in Farm Road, next to the Bee Farm Road ridge which was crossed near the Rifle Range.  Down into Sassafras Gully onwards to the main ridge about Faulconbridge Station.  After crossing the main ridge the second time, Dawes’ party made their way down a succession of deep gullies, including Linden Creek and the Woodford Creek gullies, which are about 700 feet deep (215 metres).  They crossed Woodford Creek about two and a half miles (4 km) below the Linden Dam (or Woodford Tank).

The next major gully after Woodford Creek presents a long unscaleable cliff on its western flank.  This caused the expedition to take a long, looping deviation northward around the head of the ridge.  On returning to their line of march a saddle was encountered that led to a bold ridge 2200 feet (670 metres) above sea level.  This ridge was the terminus of Dawes' journey and he named it Mount Twiss in honour of an officer in the Royal Engineers. This point appears to be a hill on the ridge north of what is now known as "Blue Mountain".

From the summit of this ridge which was reached on 14th December, an extensive view of the Carmarthen Mountains is gained, whilst at its foot is Wentworth Creek, some 900 feet (275 metres) deep and the roughest gully in the mountains.  Being confronted with this formidable barrier and considering the increased wildness of the country already traversed Dawes was forced to turn back.
To sum up the journey the statement of David Collins refers to Dawes:

- - meeting with nothing after quitting the river, but ravines that were nearly inaccessible.  He had, notwithstanding the danger and difficulty of getting through such country, reached within eleven miles of the mountains by computation.
In this journey, Lieutenant Dawes' line of march, unfortunately and unpleasantly for him, happened to be, nearly from his setting out, across a line of high and steep rock precipices, which required such caution in descending as well as labour in ascending.

It is interesting to compare the line of travel covered by Blaxland and the route Dawes took.  Dawes covered 15 miles (24 km) with an average grade of 1 in 2 descending and ascending 800 feet (244 metres) into and out of the mountain gullies, while Blaxland travelled over 22 miles (35 km) to reach a point as far west, along the crest of a ridge that had an average grade of 1 in 15, with the only steep parts being those of Emu Hill and the Bluff Ridge at Linden.

 It is highly improbable that there is any cairn or monument to mark the terminus of Dawes' journey and the many investigations that have been undertaken to establish the location of Mount Twiss have all been inconclusive due to the lack of an accurate description. However, logic and learned interpretation must locate this Mount Twiss on the Blue Mountain ridge.

Dawes continued to be included in the early reconnaissance of the settlement, because of his surveying skills, and in August 1790 accompanied by Captain Tench and a man named Morgan travelled southward towards Pyramid Hill and named a river discovered on this trip -the Morgan.
Again in the winter of 1791, with Tench, Dawes verified the unity of the Nepean (located by Tench in June 1789) and the Hawkesbury, discovered by Governor Phillip and Captain Hunter in July 1789.


In October 1788 Dawes had applied for three years’ service in the colony and until 1791 he had seriously considered settling in New South Wales.  He was totally committed to his astronomical pursuits as well as recording the weather.  He also had official responsibilities in his capacity as an officer of the Royal Marines.

Late in 1790 there was an altercation between the local Aborigines and one of Phillip's wardens who was speared to death.  Phillip was enraged and ordered a punitive expedition against the tribe, instructing Captain Tench and Lt. Dawes to take and execute ten natives in reprisal. There was some suspicion that the Warden had fomented the trouble with the natives and perhaps had deserved the spearing.  Lt. Dawes' doubts appeared to be deeper and he refused, at first, to participate in the punitive expedition at all.  However, at the behest of Tench and Collins he eventually relented and obeyed the Governor's order. 

On returning from the expedition Dawes informed the Governor that he was sorry he had been persuaded to comply with the order and very clearly showed that he would not obey a similar order in the future.  Lieutenant Dawes' expressions were such that would have subjected him to Court Martial should the Governor have been inclined.  Dawes' past service and his character were in his favour and the Governor did not proceed with any disciplinary action.   However, it meant that Dawes was no longer welcome in the colony and he returned to England on the "Gorgon" in December 1791
Dawes' movements after he returned to England are not very well documented but it is known that his compassion led him to be involved in the anti-slavery campaign.

Dawes married in 1799.  His son, William Rutter Dawes, became a well-known astronomer.  After his first wife died, Dawes married again and a daughter of this second marriage, was a Mrs. Jones, a well-known slave abolitionist.

 Dawes was involved in the Sierra Leone Company and served three times as Governor.  The company was an anti-slavery organisation, an appropriate choice for this man of compassion. Dawes died in 1836 at Antigua. There was, however, no death certificate available for a Lieutenant William Dawes;  his death, like most of his life, remains undocumented.
Zachery McCauley, Governor of the Sierra Leone Company in turn with Dawes wrote in 1796 - "Dawes is one of the excellent of the Earth"


Footnote 1.

It would appear that the commonly accepted first crossing of the Blue Mountains by Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson could have been a matter of political expediency.  The accounts of Governor Hunter refer to the expedition of John Wilson who travelled a distance of about 116 miles (186 km) in a south-westerly direction to a river flowing from the S.E. to the N.W. Planning out this journey gives an approximation to the headwaters of the Lachlan River. The trip was undertaken in the first months of 1798.

John Wilson was an ex-convict, a vagabond and spent some time living with the natives. He was expert in bush craft and bush travel, had great powers of endurance and proved himself adept in sustaining the lives of his party unencumbered by heavy burdens.
In his transcription of his journal he mentioned a "cliff of salt" which was later disproved by Henry Hacking.

This mischievous untruth, without doubt, did much to destroy credence of the land travel undergone. The evidence justifies the conclusion that the passage of the Blue Mountains in 1798 becomes a matter of historical fact.

One wonders if John Wilson had been a respected landowner and a member of the colonial aristocracy like Blaxland, instead of an ex-convict gone native, would his discoveries have been heralded as the breakthrough out of the encircling mountains.
However, as proclaimed in the history books - Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson were the first to cross the Blue Mountains in 1813.

Footnote 2.

The main record of Dawes' mountain journey is the map of the area contained in Watkin Tench's "Complete Account of Settlement". The excellent drawing of the map with the accurate depiction of the major features of the country that it shows, the outline of Sydney Harbour and the relative positions of the hills and rivers, leave no doubt as to the authenticity of the diagram of his mountain trip.  So we may rightly assume that this area, as shown, was as he saw it.

Numerous attempts have been made in search of Mt. Twiss, among the most notable was a comprehensive, detailed and exhaustive analysis of the evidence undertaken by F.A. Craft and R. Else-Mitchell in 1941, in which they say –
...we are therefore able to conclude in the light of the researches and investigations which we have carried out in the field, that we have located and identified Mt. Twiss.

In assessing the route, Dawes followed the only information available which was this map of the area, printed in 1791, on which a diagram of the traverse is shown in remarkable detail although small in scale.  The only other snippet is the statement that he reached a point fifteen miles from the river.  Putting these two factors together and relating them to the modern ordinance map a basic approximation of the route can be determined. As previously mentioned, Dawes was meticulous in his recording of journeys and there is no reason to believe that this diagram would be in error. Clarke and Mitchell, in their analysis of the journey, finally assumed that in the actual distance travelled and, on this assumption, determined Mt. Twiss to be located on Linden Ridge.

However, utilising the available information and accepting it as correct, the writer has set the line of traverse in direction and distance.  The critical determination of the correctness of this line is then based on a comparison of each different feature from the ordinance map and from Dawes' 1791 map.  The shape of each feature crossed, as defined by Dawes, is in the form of ridges and the line of the ridge towards its head.  The comparison shows that the number of ridges crossed related to the actual features is in order.

Without creating any further controversy and, indeed, the simple fact that Dawes did record the first traverse of a white man into the mountains is achievement enough and his precise terminal point has been and will be a matter of conjecture and is really of no consequence.

The mountain located by Craft and Mitchell lies about 2 miles due north of the Woodford Dam Reservoir on a spur from the Linden Ridge.  This location has been officially adopted by the Geographical Names Board.

·         Complete account of Settlement at Port Jackson in New South Wales -1793 - Watkin Tench.
·         N.S.W. - Historical Records Vol 1 pt. 2
·         Historical Journal of Admiral John Hunter  Page 151
·         Historical Records of Australia         Series 13 Vol 1
·         History of New South Wales - G.B. Barton Vol 1
·         Account of the English Colony of N.S.W. - David Collins
·         Guide Book to the excursions to the Blue Mountains and Lithgow3 19233 Pacific Science Congress - Exploration by H.R. Cambage, F.L.S.
·         First Crossing of the Blue Mountains (Newspaper Clipping) F. Walker3 Royal Australian Historical Societies Journal Vol 25 page. 475-519
·         F. Arnold Wood "Lt. William Howes and Captain Catkin Tench" Journal, Royal Australian Historical Society - 1924 p.p. 1-24
·         Letter of Daniel Southwell April 1790
·         Historical Records of New South Wales 1892 - 1901 Vol 1 pt. 2
·         S.M. Onslow (ed) Some early records of the Macarthurs of Camden -Angus & Robertson, Sydney 1914
·         Jones - Historical Records of New South Wales Vol 2 pp.19 Wood - Historical Records of New South Wales  Vol 2 pp.12
·         Letter of 25 November 1926 to Mitchell Librarian re Lieutenant W. Dawes from Colonial Secretary of Leeward Islands (West Indies) Mitchell Library Sydney M.S.S.
·         In Search of Dawes' Mount Twiss - Frank A. Craft and R. Else Mitchell -Journal of the Royal Australian Historical Society 1941
·         Dawes' Meteorological Journal - Robert J. McAfee
·         Department of Science and Technology - Australian Government Publishing Service – 1981

Originally Published by:  Braemar 530A Committee, Local History Centre, Macquarie Road, SPRINGWOOD  2777

Copyright (c) 1989: Lindsay Paish


Dawes' portrait
Dawes' Map
Dawes, William (1762–1836) ADB 

"MOUNT TWISS CONTROVERSYThe Blue Mountain Echo (NSW : 1909 - 1928)22 October 1926: 1. Web. 15 Aug 2017

Edited by John Merriman, Local Studies Librarian, 2017

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

George Sheppeard and Broughton’s Waterhole Toll Bar, Mt. Victoria

Present-day view of the Toll-bar cottage.
Photo John Merriman - flickr.
On 1862, on the morning of a late September day, two riders cantered through the township of Mount Victoria on their way to attend an auction in Hartley. As they approached the descent at Victoria Pass four men burst from the bush, their faces hidden beneath rough crepe masks. It was George Sheppheard the bushrangers were after. Their informants had led them to believe he would be passing with a large sum of money collected at the toll bar he leased on the Western Road.

As it turned out it was not George Sheppheard, they captured but his eighteen year old son who told them that his father was, in fact, absent from the district. With their purpose now somewhat confused, the bushrangers succumbed to a greater need than money, released their prisoners, and withdrew to the pubs of Little Hartley.

The toll bar cottage of George Sheppheard survives in Mount Victoria today. It is one of the few remaining links with that period before the railway when the road was the centre of all activity, legal and illegal, and life on the Mountains was often harsh and remote from the embellishments of civilization.

Map of One Tree Hill showing the Toll-bar cottage and
George Sheppeard's original holdings c.1920s 
Officially known as the Broughton's Waterhole Toll Bar, it was one of a number set up along the Western Road following a proclamation of Governor Fitzroy in November 1848. As the country opened up, tolls became increasingly important as a revenue source for the development and maintenance of the major road systems. Tolls levied varied with the category of traffic, while the cost of a lease depended upon the site and the volume of traffic anticipated. In 1848 the lease at Broughton's Waterhole cost £360. By 1867 it had risen to £800.

The toll charges in 1836 included:

Sheep, pig or goat                                 ¼ d - ½ d
Horned cattle                                        1 d
Horse                                                     2 d
Cart and one horse                                3 d
Carriage & pair                                 1/-
4 wheeled vehicle drawn by 4 horses   3/-
Double tolls on Sunday.

At that time a 2kg loaf of bread cost 10d, a cabbage cost 1d, eggs were 2/- a dozen and ten pounds weight (4.5 kg) of potatoes cost the same as the toll for a carriage and pair, see note on currency below.

George Sheppheard, it seems, held the lease at Broughton's Waterhole from 1852 until about 1866, while his friend, Thomas Ellison, did the same at 17 Mile Hollow, Linden, for roughly the same period. Both also built inns on land adjacent to their toll bars and tapped extra income from the passing traffic. The toll bar at Linden is long gone, demolished to make way for the railway in 1867, while the quiet, withdrawn position of the Broughton's Waterhole cottage today belies its active past. In those years when the gold fever drove thousands into the wilderness the small toll bar cottage played a central role in the bustling surge of life that moved along the Bathurst Road.

The Welcome Inn and Toll-bar cottage, early 1900s
Photo courtesy Macleay Museum 
In 1862 Sheppeard built and became first licensee of the Toll-bar Inn, also known as the Old Welcome Inn, and had other business interests in the township including a general store, butchery and bakery. He was a farm labourer from Suffolk, born around 1811 and had arrived as a convict in the Colony of NSW in 1836, one of 399 convicts transported on the ship Moffatt; having been tried at Woodbridge Quarter Sessions and sentenced to seven years transportation for stealing ten pigs and attempting to sell them at the local market where they were recognised by the owner.

According to the convict records, George was of ruddy complexion and a big man for the time being 5’10” in height, and showing the scars on his face and knuckles that marked him as a man who could use his fists, but been caught by a lucky left jab – he had a ‘missing front tooth right side of upper jaw, scar on right eyebrow and the left side of upper lip, sandy whiskers, two scars back of forefinger of right hand and one on back of forefingers of left hand.’

George worked out his sentence on the government farm at Parramatta, the first farm to produce sufficient food to feed the penal colony. It had been established beside the river in 1788, where the richer soils had produced enough grain, livestock and other crops to save the settlement from starvation. Following Governor Phillip's establishment of the Governor's Domain in 1790 the area contained agricultural land, stockyards, lumber yards, and most significantly, the governor's residence and vice-regal offices.

In December 1841 George Sheppeard married Caroline Victoria Whittle, daughter of Thomas and Victoria Whittle, she had arrived by the ship Queen Victoria in July 1841, and was described as a ‘native of London, domestic servant - plain cook and housemaid, age 28, very good health, Catholic, can read, under care of Surgeon Supt.’ This was a time when young women, usually servants or farm workers, were being actively recruited with low priced 'bounty' tickets to immigrate to NSW in an effort to supply labour and respectable servants, and to balance the ‘unhealthy’ male-female ratio. By 1833 male convicts accounted for 80 per cent of the recorded east Australian population. Among convicts the ratio of men to women was 8 to 1.

Many of the young 'bounty' girls who arrived in Sydney and Melbourne found themselves in a miserable situation, with little but prostitution and crime to sustain them. This was not to be Caroline’s fate, she arrived in July and was married to George within five months. Louisa Ann Meredith wrote of the female convicts, ‘All are certain of marrying, if they please; proposals are plentiful’.

After receiving his freedom in 1843 George was eager to take advantage of the many opportunities for a man with an eye to the main chance and the fists to back it up. George also leased the toll-bar at South Bowenfels. This was situated at what was called McGrath's Corner, near the junction of the main highway and the Lowther-Hampton-Oberon Road. This toll-bar was in existence from 1863 until 1872, when in response to falling income caused by the spread of the railways, many toll-bars were closed. John Delaney looked after this gate and in 1863 married George Sheppeard's eldest daughter Sarah Jane.

The toll-bar cottage in 1951 during the Blue Mountains Crossings celebration
Local Studies collection
George was a speculator and a lover of the turf, and at one time owned five race horses — Saunterer, Stella, Aristocrat, Partner and Doctor; the first named was a first-rater, and the mare Stella performed well in Sydney, while Aristocrat won a Sydney Cup.

In 1868 George was declared bankrupt and the Inn was put up for auction:

JAMES T. RYAN has received instructions from Mr. R. H. Sempill, the Official Assignee, to sell by auction, on Wednesday, 8th. day of January next, at noon, on the premises,— The " Old Welcome Inn," known as Shepherd's Toll­bar, situated on the Bathurst Road, near Mount Victoria, One tree Hill. The property consists of 40 acres, on which is erected some good substantial buildings. The present tenant pays £60 per year, the tenancy terminating 24th November, 1868.With the promises will be sold the right to receive over from the tenant a large quantity of household furniture contained in the tap-room, dining-room, 6 bed-rooms, kitchen, wash-house, &c., particularized in a catalogue to be seen at the Auction Room, which appears to contain every requisite for such an establishment.

On October 24, 1876 Sheppeard’s toll-bar was closed and the next year the Government abolished all road tolls throughout the State.

Early 20th century map showing the footprint
of the Toll-bar cottage and the Welcome Inn
Local Studies collection
Sheppeard’s toll-bar is mentioned in the recollections of Thomas Sutton, a well-known business man in Lithgow, who as a youth had worked as a collector at various toll-bars, the first being at Newtown, Sydney, in 1856, when he was 14 years old. From Newtown he went to the toll bat at Wentworth Falls, known as Weatherboard at the time, and then to Randwick. The loneliness at Randwick got to the young man and he returned to the Mountains by coach to work for Ryan and Dempsey, who had a store, butchery and bakery at the fettlers’ camp on the construction of the railway near Blackheath. After about 12 months there he got the job of collector at Sheppeard's toll-bar, he wrote in his memoirs in 1914:  

While looking after this bar, I was credited by the drivers as being the most attentive of all toll-keepers on the mountains. I would hear the coach coming over a bit of metalled road and would have my pants and slippers on, and out before they reached the gate.

In 1871 Thomas Sutton married Amelia a daughter of George Sheppeard, they had five sons and a daughter, their first son was named George.

Little is known about the building's functional life after 1868. It lay largely forgotten as changes in the road route left it stranded awkwardly beyond the main traffic flow, the dignity of its rich history withdrawing into gradual dilapidation.

In early 1928 it was near derelict and the Shire Council had received complaints regarding the ‘ruinous and insanitary condition of the old Toll Bar at Mount Victoria’. And later in the same year its ownership was included in a foreclosure, a letter from the solicitors H. F. McFie and Co., received by the Shire Council, stated that the liquidators had no objection to the demolition of the Toll Bar house by Council 'so that the unsightly excrescence may be wiped out of sight, and you are authorised to acquire the site upon which it is built.'

However at the same meeting there was also a letter tabled from the Mt. Victoria Urban Committee that shed some light on the continuing life of the building as a refuge for itinerant workers and travellers on the Western Road, whether this continued into the 1930s during the Great Depression we can only guess. The committee requested that Council procure for them the ‘Old Toll Bar’, and the land attached, at the lowest possible figure. Council was informed that ‘at a later period the committee intended to renovate the old historic structure and give the place the necessary supervision, so as to avoid nuisances from swagmen, and we consider this old landmark of great historical interest and well worthy of a visit from tourists’. 

The council report stated that the Trustees of the Mount Victoria Group reserves were joining up with the Urban Committee in the matter. It was decided to let the Urban Committee take possession, at the nominal rental of 1/- per annum.

The Toll-bar cottage with unknown gent in front, c. 1930,
photo by AA manning from the Local Studies collection
In May 1930 the toll-bar was again under threat as shown by a letter to the Sydney Morning Herald from the Royal Australian Historical Society, stating that the Main Roads Board planned to demolish the cottage for road widening, ‘the matter was receiving attention’, they were told.  In 1935 legislation was passed for its resumption and the Toll-Bar cottage passed into local government hands. In 1939 renovations were carried out by the Blue Mountains Shire Council at a cost of £180 funded by a State Government grant. Efforts were made by the Blue Mountains Historical Society to discover the date of building, without success. The renovations  disclosed the date 1849 in a keystone over the door. The Shire president (Cr. Mathews) informed council that already there was a tenant wishing to rent the property, as a tea room and gift store, with the intention of selling curios, booklets and other historical articles.

In 1950 a commemorative tablet was unveiled at a ceremony by the Mayor of the Blue Mountains City Council, Ald. Galway, attended by Mr. E. Sheppeard, descendant of George Sheppeard. In unveiling the tablet, Mr. E. J. McKenzie, hon. research secretary, Lithgow District Historical Society, said the ceremony was significant because of at least three things: Firstly, the tablet would inform the public, on the authority of the Blue Mountains Historical Society, that the quaint old building, which had stood on the roadside for more than 100 years, was built in 1849 to serve as a cottage for the toll-bar keeper at what was then, known as Broughton's Waterhole.

Second in significance was the fact that, with them that afternoon, was a descendant of George Sheppeard who so continuously leased the toll-bar that it became known as "Sheppeard's Toll-bar." The ceremony was also significant, Mr. McKenzie went on to say, because it was another instance of what historical societies were doing in the country. Instead of writing letters to the press bewailing the demolition or neglect of our historical relics, people who were conscious of our Australian tradition found it better to band together and by joint effort do the necessary things themselves.

In 1969 the toll-bar became a National Trust property and stories continued to circulate in the township of it being haunted by the ghost of a woman.

Despite some abortive attempts at further renovation, it was not until local architect Peter Buckwell took out a lease in the 1980s that renewed life and character were breathed back into the ageing stone cottage. Appropriately restored, it functioned as his firm’s business office until around 1990 and is currently vacant.

Today the locality of Broughton’s Waterhole has passed from living memory but George Sheppeard’s toll-bar cottage still stands among the road works, the holiday traffic and thundering trucks just off the busy highway in Mount Victoria. It is one of the few remaining links with that period before the railway when the road was the centre of all activity, legal and illegal, and life on the Mountains was often harsh and remote from the embellishments of civilization.


John Merriman, Local Studies Librarian 

Note on pre-decimal currency: ‘d’ was the abbreviation for a penny, a quarter of a penny (¼d) was called a farthing, a half penny (½d) was called a ha’penny. There were 12 pence (12d) to a shilling (1/-) and 20 shillings (20/-) to the pound (£1/0/0). The ‘d’ coming for the Latin word denarii (sing. denarius, a common coin in Roman Britain). At time of decimalisation in 1966 £1 became $2. However £1 in the mid-19th century may be multiplied by 120 to roughly equate to the present value. http://www.thomblake.com.au/secondary/hisdata/calculate.php 


'Broughton’s Waterhole toll Bar Cottage', in 'Historic Blue Mountains', John Low, 1987.  

TOLL BARS (1933, October 26). The Cumberland Argus and Fruitgrowers Advocate (Parramatta, NSW : 1888 - 1950), p. 3 ("Back=to=Parramatta" Week Supplement to The Cumberland Argus). Retrieved March 14, 2017.

TOLL BAR HISTORY (1950, December 29). Lithgow Mercury (NSW : 1898 - 1954), p. 4 (CITY EDITION). Retrieved March 14, 2017, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article219753237

Toll Bars. (1913, May 14). The Bathurst Times (NSW : 1909 - 1925), p. 2. Retrieved March 14, 2017, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article111214859

"OLD TOLL-BAR HOUSE" The Katoomba Daily (NSW : 1920 - 1939) 25 June 1938: 3. Web. 3 Apr 2017 http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article190115283

"OLD TOLL BAR" The Blue Mountain Echo (NSW : 1909 - 1928) 17 February 1928: 5. Web. 3 Apr 2017 http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article108955898 Tablet Unveiled At Mt. Victoria Toll Bar Home (1950, December 19). Lithgow Mercury (NSW : 1898 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved March 14, 2017, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article219751802

JAMES T. RYAN has received instructions from Mr. R. H. Sempill, the Official Assignee, to sell by auction, on (1868, December 18). New South Wales Government Gazette (Sydney, NSW : 1832 - 1900), p. 4561. Retrieved April 3, 2017, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article225581659

See also Gov. Macquarie's original proclamation in its glorious Georgian English and even do some text correcting -
"Proclamation, By His Excellency LACHLAN MACQUARIE, Esquire, Captain General, Governor and Commander in Chief in and over His Majesty's Territory of New South Wales and its Dependencies, &c. &c. &c." The Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1803 - 1842) 30 March 1811: 2. Web. 3 May 2017